A Visit to Gretna

A Visit to Gretna

Have I mentioned I visited Scotland not long ago? Well not just Scotland. Convinced this was a once in a lifetime, check it off the bucket list, trip, my friend and I visited Scotland, England, and Wales. Though I highly recommend almost every place we stopped, I would advise those interested not to do it all in fifteen days. It was beautiful, fascinating, and … exhausting. When deciding what to blog this month, I decided to focus on one of our many stops that might interest an Austen or Regency Era romance reader. So, let’s go to Gretna Green.

Regency romance is rife with elopements making Gretna a familiar landmark for most readers. Why? Because Scotland did not hold to England’s strict marriage laws and Gretna is the southernmost point on the Scottish border. Again, common knowledge to the average Regency reader. What these readers may not know is how this all came about.

As Jane Austen made clear in more than one of her characters, the clergy in England were not always the most reputable men.

Taken at the Gretna Green Blacksmith Museum.


Taken at the Gretna Green Blacksmith Museum.


But Scotland (that beautiful, rebellious country) refused to change their traditions. Therefore, the legal age remained sixteen and the requirement of simply declaring one’s wish before two witnesses was sufficient to constitute a legal and binding marriage. Let the elopements begin!

Oh, the stories, TRUE stories, that are told at Gretna Green.

illustrated postcards (in a series of four) depicting the episodes of a Gretna Green wedding

Being raised United Methodist, I must admit to a bit of shock when I learned John and Charles Wesley assisted in the elopement of their host’s daughter and a young German bachelor. The presence of another friend who was an artist even insured the moment would be caught on canvas.



Of course not all were stories of love. In 1826 a wealthy mill-owner’s daughter who was not yet sixteen was tricked by a scoundrel into eloping. Her father was also the Sheriff of Cheshire! This rogue was ballsy.

While at school, a letter was received stating the girl’s mother was seriously ill and the daughter, Ellen, must return home. Believing it to be true, she went willingly with the family butler. While stopped in Manchester to change horses, Ellen met a handsome, well-dressed man and became enchanted. He introduced himself as a friend to her father and explained that her mother was not ill after all, that she was travelling to meet her father.

When they arrived at their next stop, her father was not there. The “gentleman” then explained her father was bankrupt and all property was being transferred to her name, but she must marry so that her husband could then return the property to her father. (This man should have been a writer! Have you ever read a more convoluted plot?)



But it wasn’t just the common folk marrying at Gretna. Three Lord Chancellors eloped to this infamous location, but the most notable was Lord Erskine in 1818. After being widowed for eleven years, Lord Erskine decided to marry his housekeeper and mother of several of his illegitimate children. His children from his first marriage were quite displeased as they had no intention of sharing any inheritance with these children born on the wrong side of the blanket.

Not only did they decide to elope, Lord Erskine did so in drag. Dressed as a “rather flamboyant woman”, the Lord insisted he was the bride’s mother until they were before the anvil priest.

Why were his children so concerned? Because Scottish law made bastard children legitimate by the marriage of their parents.

Satirical print from the British Museum (also painted on the wall at the Gretna Green Blacksmith Museum)




The most wonderful part of Gretna history is that, should you wish it, you can still be wed there over the anvil. In fact, a wedding took place moments after we left the area pictured below.

One of the marriage rooms inside the Gretna Green Blacksmith Museum.


As a romantic, I was charmed and a bit frightened by some of Gretna’s stories; but as a writer, I was in heaven when I reached their carriage room at the end of the tour. Giggling as I snapped picture after picture, I imagined how the moment was sure to enhance my story telling as I now knew how many people and of what size could fit inside a Barouche, Landau, or Stage Coach. The interiors, the cushions, the space for luggage. My mind still whirls as I look at the pictures and I cannot suppress a smile. If you are ever able, I highly recommend a trip to Gretna.


Would you marry at Gretna Green?


*Pictures taken in the Gretna Green Museum unless otherwise noted. Stories taken from the museum plaques, gretnagreen.com, and From the Hammer To the Anvil: Love, marriage and scandal at Gretna Green by Alan Air.

11 Responses to A Visit to Gretna

  1. As someone that eloped, I would definitely have loved to have been married at Gretna Green. I enjoyed the stories especially the story of Lord Erskine’s marriage. I wonder if a movie or show ever depicted this event.

  2. What a interesting post! I had no idea people could still marry “over the anvil” — a great idea for readers of Regency Romance!

    • Well, you can go though a form of marriage at the anvil. It has absolutely no legal status, and is mainly for the tourists. To be legally married in Gretna would require a previous residence of at least 3 weeks during which you had banns called, or had posted a notice of intention to marry at the Gretna Registry Office, or had obtained a licence from the Sheriff Court, though these are not usually given out for frivolous reasons. The ceremony would have to take place in a church, though most ministers and priests would require you to have some connection with the church, the Registrar’s office or a place licenced to carry out weddings, which needless to say many of the local hotels are.

  3. I doubt I could make it from KY to Gretna in the timely manner an elopement would require. LOL! Gosh… to be there… my heart speeds up just thinking about it. My father’s people are Scottish and it has been my dream to someday travel to Scotland. I will take your advice though… and slow down the travel time so i can enjoy my visit. Great notion about the carriages and how many people can comfortably travel. I keep trying to wrap my thoughts around all the Bennets jammed in a carriage… with Mr. Collins… as they traveled to the Netherfield ball. It just does not compute. This was a delightful post.

    • My father’s family is also Scottish (about enough to fill my little finger according to my mother, but I’m claiming it). The highlands are ruggedly beautiful and there is soooo much to see on Skye. We really could have spent all 15 days just in Scotland.
      I have always tried to imagine the whole family in one carriage as well and just couldn’t do it. They would have been in each other’s laps. In one of my books, I think it might have been the first, I put Mr. Collins on top with the driver and made Mr. Bennet ride alongside.
      Thank you for taking time to comment!

  4. I don’t know. Gretna Green is mentioned in Jane Austen s books quite a bit. The pics were really nice!

    • The book I referenced, From the Hammer to the Anvil, said something about that. They were talking about how things are recorded in history generations later, but Gretna made it into the Jane Austen’s books before the end of the century. It is mentioned in her Juvenilia. It really did have a major impact on society.
      I had so many pictures to choose from! I will share more from other locations in future posts. (Wait until you see Chatsworth!) 🙂

  5. Thank you for sharing this fascinating post. The location has always been of interest to me – I even had one of the couples in my debut novel get married at Gretna Green. 🙂

Leave a reply

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.